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Starting the day on The Hoe |
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Plymouth being situated on the South-west Peninsula faces challenges, especially since the contraction of the naval dockyards at Devonport. The fact that it is on the way to Cornwall presents problems as there is little incentive for new business to locate there. As a result, the city has had to look for ways to re-brand itself as a university city, a service centre and a tourist destination.
The city centre was flattened during the bombing raids of the Second World War and rebuilt in the "contemporary" style of the post-war concensus. Many people would see it as a concrete jungle but the wide boulevards and low-rise blocks give it a sense of light, space and elegance not seen in many British cities. Coming down off The Hoe onto Armada Way presents a very pleasing aspect framed with classic low blocks, one being the Dingles department store (now House of Fraser). However, there is a very definite division into two halves. Below Armada Way towards the Pannier Market, the shops are of a lower status and the atmosphere is not helped by the large, still empty units that once housed Woolworths and Derry's Department Store. There have been attempts to re-brand this area at Frankfort Gate as the "independent quarter". Time will show if this will be a success.
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Pawn-brokers, money lenders and cheap shops near the Market. |
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The Frankfort Gate entrance to the Market - new paving and road surfaces designed to smarten up the area. |
Go up the hill from Armada Way and the picture is very different for we are in "clone town" territory. Most of the usual chain stores are to be seen and this reaches its climax in the shiny new glass, steel and crazy angles of the Drake Circus development - the usual private enclosed space found in most city centres, patrolled by security guards to keep out the undesirables and those without money to spend. The lower end of town might be a little tired but it is public space and this contrasts with the privatised zone at the other end of the city centre. This development replaced a run-down area of 60's shopping precinct that had been left behind by changing fashion. How long will the new style last?
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The gateway to retail heaven - the south entrance to Drake Circus shopping centre. |
By contrast, the old centre of Plymouth, The Barbican, which to be found around Sutton Harbour, has become very smart through re-branding. The harbour-side is now full of tasteful greys, chalk white and sage green as the old boozers have been replaced by bistros and delicatessen styled "kitchens". The new aquarium adds a focus to the increasingly tourist-orientated area.
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"Foodie" paradise - a row of re-branded pubs and dining venues in the Barbican. |
Finally, on to the once derelict Royal William Yard in the area of Stonehouse. At the wrong end of the notorious Union Street, the area was one of intense deprivation. However, the faded Georgian houses on Durnford Street were recognised for their potential and a slow process of gentrification started to rejuvenate the area. However, vacant since 1992, the great hulking Grade 1 listed site of the old Royal Naval Victualling complex presented a challenge on an enormous scale. Misguided plans for a factory outlets shopping scheme were thwarted by the poor access onto its peninsula site. Subsequent redevelopment by Urban Splash is beginning to breath life back into the area and the site is showing sign of activity after a long and quiet gestation. Recent opening have included a wine merchant, hairdresser, clothes shop and a branch of the River Cafe. However, now the chains are now homing in, with spaces booked for Wagamama and Las Iguanas. It is a shame that they wait for others to take the risk, them move in and ultimately crowd out the independents. A sign of the times!
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A corner of the Royal William Yard |